Belle Isle sits in the Detroit River between Michigan and Canada, but it is purely a U.S. icon and a historical park, unlike many in America today.
The 982-acre blast from the past fell into extreme disrepair for many years. Now, with Michigan oversight, it is making a comeback. It is establishing itself as a gem of the state, if not the country.
The park hearkens back to the olden days. It’s a remnant of the late 19th century. Many historical and cultural treasures will take you back in time. Left virtually untouched for many years, it’s now getting a good dusting off. The National Park Service took ownership of the park in 2014.
About Belle Isle
Created in 1845, the island is about 2.5 miles long, so a loop around it is five miles. It’s great for a Sunday drive on a summer day. It’s also perfect for a jog, a bike ride, or a nice long walk if you’re ambitious. Don’t do it in a thunderstorm, as I’ve somehow managed to do multiple times.
The park features an aquarium, a conservatory, and playgrounds. There are picnic areas and a yacht club. You will also find a nature center, a golf course, and a beach. It has a lighthouse and a rowing club. You can enjoy some of the best views of the Downtown Detroit skyline without a boat. Indeed, the only way to access the island is by boat or across the MacArthur Bridge from Detroit.
And I haven’t even mentioned the history.
Fun fact: In French, Belle Isle means “beautiful island.” It was also called “pig island” when traders stored their livestock there before it was developed. As with many things in Detroit, it’s a contradiction.
Famous Landscape Architect
The island has a familiar layout as another well-known U.S. park. The wide boulevards, diverse landscaping, and abundant cultural and physical activities are reminiscent of Central Park in New York City. It’s not surprising since they were both created by the same man.
Frederick Law Olmsted Designed Belle Isle
Known as the father of landscape architects, Frederick Law Olmsted created Central Park and Belle Isle. He designed the main area for Chicago’s 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition. He also designed parks surrounding Niagara Falls, the U.S. Capitol Building, and many others.
Fun fact: Niagara Falls was the first state park, established in 1885 as the Niagara Reservation.
Sadly, under Detroit’s administration, Belle Isle fell into serious disrepair from neglect. After it became a Michigan State Park, the restoration work began. This effort made it a jewel for the city of Detroit and American history.
Below are a few of the park’s highlights. Still, nothing compares to a day spent there than exploring it for yourself. I have found something new to admire with each visit.
Belle Isle Aquarium
If you like architecture, design and history, you can’t miss this Beaux Art beauty designed by Albert Kahn. The Belle Isle Aquarium is the oldest and, at one time, the largest aquarium in the United States.
The aquarium was once neglected, run down, and eventually closed. But the Belle Isle Conservancy reopened it after several years, and restoration is still in effect. It’s looking better each year.
Aside from the tanks filled with exotic fish and amphibians, the design is a sight. Ornate arches of opalescent and green glass tiles line the vaulted ceiling, forcing you to look up and marvel. You can support the conservancy by purchasing a T-shirt or other items from the small gift shop.
Address: 3 Inselruhe Ave, Detroit, MI 48207.
Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory
The conservatory and botanical gardens sit adjacent to the aquarium. Albert Kahn also designed these in 1902. They house a lily pond filled with giant koi fish, moss-covered limestone, and a massive glass dome. The garden is filled with flora and fauna from around the world.
The Conservatory has several rooms filled with different types of plants. There are giant palms, orchids, cactus, banana trees, oranges, figs and various flowering plants, and a formal garden outside.
Sad fact: The palms must be cut down when they reach the 85-foot glass and touch the dome’s top. (but it doesn’t happen very often. The last time was in 1955.)
Address: 900 Inselruhe Ave, Detroit, MI 48207.
Dossin Great Lakes Museum
This 16,000-square-foot museum showcases over 300 years of the maritime history of the Great Lakes. And yes, that includes much about the well-known Edmund Fitzgerald (thank you, Gordon Lightfoot).
Did you know the Detroit River was a route for many migrating settlers? Or that American Indians paddled canoes down it before Michigan was even a state? It’s still one of the busiest rivers in the world today.
You’ll find some cool things inside, including an anchor from the Edmund Fitzgerald and a restored “Gothic Room.” It’s an old-school smoking lounge once housed on the S.S. City of Detroit III cruise ship. Oh, those golden years when smoking was “healthy.”
Address: 100 Strand Dr, Detroit, MI 48207.
Detroit Yacht Club
Founded in 1868, the Detroit Yacht Club is one of the biggest and oldest in the country. Housed on its own small, private island attached to Belle Isle by a bridge, it’s a place for Detroit’s elite. The clubhouse, designed by George Mason (architect of the Grand Hotel on Mackinaw Island), hosts weddings and events.
I’ve heard it’s as hoity-toity as you’d expect a yacht club to be. I’ve only seen pictures. You need an invite to get inside, and I, unfortunately, don’t run in the “right” circles. One day, maybe. But as Groucho Marx said, “I don’t care to belong to any club that will have me as a member.”
Address: 1 Riverbank Dr, Detroit, MI 48207.
Belle Isle Nature Center
The island’s ecology is interesting and diverse; you can learn about it at the Belle Isle Nature Center.
Visitors can get an insider’s view of an actual beehive and get an up-close look at some Michigan wildlife. A bird observation window allows guests to watch native and migratory birds.
The center holds fish, amphibians, invertebrates, and various reptiles. Out back are goats and other petting farm animals, including the rare European fallow deer. The deer used to run free on the island before nearly going extinct from inbreeding. Dirty birds.
Address: 176 Lakeside Drive, Detroit, MI 48207.
James Scott Memorial Fountain
Many consider this “the” place on Belle Isle, and you can often find it swarming with people. It’s a favorite place to take pictures with the setting sun as a backdrop.
Pro tip: Avoid during homecoming and prom.
Designed by architect Cass Gilbert, the fountain was supposed to cost $200k and be completed in 1925. It was completed on time, but over budget at $500k, in true Detroit style.
There was controversy too. It seemed Scott was unloved and had no friends or family to leave his money. When he died, he donated it to Detroit, stipulating that they build a fountain in his honor. People were upset that such an unsavory fellow would have a monument on the island. But the city wanted that money and built it anyway. And now there is a lovely fountain in the park that almost nobody knows the history of anyway.
The white marble lower bowl of the fountain is 510 ft, and the main spray shoots 125 into the air. A statue of Scott sits alongside the fountain. Lion figures and images of Detroit adorn it.
Fun fact: A famous scene from the 1973 Scarecrow, starring Gene Hackman and Al Pacino, was filmed here.
Address: Sunset & Fountain Dr, Detroit, MI 48207.
Belle Isle Beach
For an urban beach in the Detroit River, it’s much nicer than you probably expect. Stretching a quarter-mile long on the island’s Detroit side, this sandy beach is perfect for a day in the sun.
There are locker rooms, shower facilities, BBQ grills, and food trucks nearby. The water is clean and clear. But it’s a busy river, so use caution. The distance you can swim is limited by boat traffic, but it’s a refreshing treat on a hot city day.
Open daily 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. from Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Address: 7845 Riverbank Dr, Detroit, MI 48209.
Not so Secret spot: Another spot, called the hippy beach, is hidden near the northern center of the island behind the lighthouse. It’s small but secluded, or at least it used to be before everyone found out about it. It takes a bit more effort, and it’s tiny, so plan accordingly.
Kayak Launch & Paddleboard Rentals on Belle Isle
You can tour the canals that go through the island’s center. You can paddle past the yacht club, Detroit Boat Club, and lighthouse from the water. You’ll enjoy the view of Detroit and Windsor skylines.
Kayak rentals and paddleboards can be had by the hour or the day. Plan your own tour, or take a guided one around the island with an experienced guide. I toured through the canals and it was a peaceful, relaxing afternoon.
Belle Isle Casino
The Belle Isle Casino is one of the oldest buildings on the island, but it wasn’t used for gambling. It’s always been a venue for gatherings and parties. The word “casino” originally meant a small country villa, summerhouse, or social club.
The casino now hosts many festivals and events, but its most popular activity is hosting weddings. Filled with old marble and large spaces, the two-story venue can be had relatively inexpensively for a night.
Belle Isle Giant Slide
This is a perfect reason to get your kids to behave during a day of history. Tell them they can end the day on the giant slide if they’re good. Anyone over 48 inches tall can ride the slide for just $1. Though it might not be a reward.
In 2022, it had its 15 minutes of fame. Riders flew into the air because the slide was too slick and fast. Ouch.
There used to be a water slide at the beach too, but it was removed after falling into disrepair.
Address: Central & Inselruhe Aves, Detroit, MI 48207.
Belle Isle Golf Course
This 9-acre, 30-bay full-length driving range includes three putting greens, two chipping greens and four sand traps. I’ve never been, but I’ve heard it’s nice.
The course sits on the Canadian side of the island and gets a lot of wind so that it can be a challenge to your game. Still, the views of Windsor and the river also make it a favorite picnic spot for many Detroiters. And your golf game can use a bit of challenge, eh?
Address: 175 Lakeside Dr, Detroit, MI 48207.
Belle Isle Boat House
Yet another historical building on the island. Built in 1902, formerly known as the Detroit Boat Club, is currently being restored, like all areas of the island.
Detroit architect Alpheus Chittenden designed the Spanish-style brick and stucco building. It still has many historic and lavish elements and old wood like you’ve never seen. Back in 1902, lavishness was the norm.
Fun Fact: Chittenden also designed the World’s Largest Stove for the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. The massive cast iron stove used to be housed at the Michigan Fair Grounds. Sadly, it was destroyed in a fire and is no more. How does an iron stove burn down? It boggles the mind.
Address: E Picnic Way, Detroit, MI 48207.
Livingstone Memorial Lighthouse
This light green marble beauty is found at the island’s north end. Its marble construction makes it one of the few in the country – oh, those golden days of excess! The memorial to William Livingstone, built in 1929, was more than a beacon for ships at night. I’ve toured this country coast to coast, and it’s one of the prettiest lighthouses you’ll find anywhere. I’ve scouted many across this country and I promise you this is a beauty.
Detroit Grand Prix
Once a year, the Detroit Grand Prix IndyCar Series was hosted on the island. For one month, a temporary track was set up across the island. The race cars could heard tearing it up throughout downtown.
Over the years, there have been many complaints about the races because of the island’s destruction. But there’s also a lot of money and attention, so it’s a trade-off like most things involving this island. However, after years of debate, in 2023, the event returned to the streets of Downtown Detroit.
Visiting Belle Isle
While a lot about the island still needs to be fixed, there is a lot of glorious history and architecture worth preserving and celebrating. It’s easily worth a visit and spending a day. If nothing else, it’s a lesson in the lavish excess of the past and what happens when we don’t take care of things.
There’s a lot to see and do on the Belle Isle and it’s the perfect place for a diverse group to visit with activities for anyone to enjoy.
Because it’s now a state park, you’ll need a Michigan State Park permit or day pass to enter unless you go by boat, foot, or bike.
The cost to enter Belle Isle is $12 when purchased with your license plate renewal $6 for motorcycles. A commercial pass is $17, and a daily pass for non-residents is $9. A $5 “convenience fee” is charged if you purchase a yearly pass at the park. If you walk or bicycle onto the island, entry is free.
Belle Isle has so much potential. Still, a lot needs to be fixed and cleaned up. The canals are not immune to many years of overgrowth and neglect.
The island and canals improve yearly, so check it out for yourself.
Read more stories about Detroit here.
1 Comment