If you like the Everglades alligators and vast sawgrass marshes, then you’ll love its lesser-known cousin, Big Cypress National Preserve.
At Big Cypress, it’s not just the unique ecosystem that grabs attention; it’s the scale of the untouched wildness. Here, airplants and orchids can grow as large as melons. The land stretches out in vast, untouched swamp, where creatures of all sorts roam freely, giving it an untamed spirit.
While I’m an avid hiker, some of the trails here gave me pause. The eyes peeking above the waters that line the paths, watching as you pass, made me uneasy. But the solitary wildness of the place, much freer than the Everglades, called to something in me, too.
Big Cypress is Unique From the Everglades
While it’s part of the greater Everglades ecosystem, Big Cypress is a swamp. The Everglades, alternatively, is a slow-moving river of grass.
The cypress swamps are different than the vast sawgrass marshes of the Everglades for a few reasons. First, the obvious, they are filled with massive cypress trees. The Bald Cypress often grows up to 150 feet tall. They’re a critical filter for the water and habitat for different animals. The dense tree canopy creates a lot of shade, keeping the interior of Big Cypress cooler and more humid.
Key Differences between Big Cypress and the Everglades
Big Cypress has distinct types of “dry,” upland habitats that contrast with the more common wetlands like swamps and marshes. These drier “upland” areas have hammocks filled with dense subtropical vegetation like orchids and airplants.
Fun fact: Hammocks in Big Cypress aren’t for hanging in between the trees. They’re natural “islands” of dense forest on a slightly elevated ground.
While the Everglades is called a “river of grass,” Big Cypress is more like a “river of trees.” The sawgrass marshes of the Everglades are vast and open, but Big Cypress is a dense, enclosed forest. The water flows slowly, collecting minerals, removing waste and creating a perfect environment for many animals.
Animals of Big Cypress
Many animals thrive here, including some of Florida’s most iconic and endangered species. You will see plenty of alligators, but also snakes, many large and some deadly (gulp), turtles, salamanders and frogs.
The Florida Panther is a flagship species of Big Cypress. The Florida Black Bear is another found on the edges of this ecosystem. There are also deer, otters, bobcats, and feral hogs. If you’re lucky, you might even see the Big Cypress Fox Squirrel. The large fox squirrel is aptly named. It grows up to three pounds and, with its reddish-colored body, long nose, and bushy tail, resembles a small fox.
Things to Do in Big Cypress
Many hike, but there are options. If you’re daunted by the wet, shady trails and animals listed above, like me, you can still see this place. Many opt to take a scenic drive.
Driving
- Turner River Birdon Loop Road: This 17-mile gravel road winds through the cypress forests and open wetlands. If you’re slow and quiet, it’s a good place to see animals from your car. Keep your eyes peeled for alligators sunning along the water’s edge.
- Tamiami Trail (US-41): The road passes through Big Cypress National Preserve. It’s the road on which you’ll find the Oasis Visitor Center and the Nathaniel P. Reed Visitor Center right off the highway. Both visitor centers feature short boardwalk trails and a wealth of information.
Hiking
If you’re a chicken, like me, boardwalk trails are the way to go. These elevated pathways give a good view of the ecosystem without being in the middle of it.
- Kirby Storter Scenic Boardwalk: Get close-up views of the cypress trees, massive airplants, and a bit of swamp life. Still, you’ll stay dry and slightly removed from deeper waters. You’ll find it 7.5 miles west of the Oasis Visitor Center.
- If you are much, much braver than I, you can try “Wet Walks” or Slough Slogging. Unlike boardwalks that keep you above the water, wet walks have you wading in it. There are several guides who you can hire to help you navigate the water (from ankle to waist-deep).
Kayaking or Canoeing
Maybe a boat feels seems like a good medium option. If so, there are a few paddling trails off of Tamiami Trail (US-41) on the western side of the preserve. Signs, the park website and trail information at the visitor’s center will show the way.
- Turner River Canoe Trail: This is one of the most popular and scenic options, with various length routes. It goes through dense cypress forests to mangrove tunnels leading towards the estuaries. An estuary is a partially enclosed body of water near the coast. It’s where freshwater mixes with saltwater from the ocean.
- Halfway Creek Paddling Trail: This trail goes through mangrove tunnels and connects to other waterways, even reaching Everglades City. Find it in the southwestern part of the preserve.
Stargazing
While the western U.S. is more known for dark skies, the eastern part of the country has a few. Big Cypress is an International Dark Sky Place. Fun fact: It was the first National Park Service unit east of Colorado to earn the status. It’s one of the darkest areas east of the Mississippi River.
The preserve works to maintain dark skies through lighting policies and public education. During the winter, visitors can participate in ranger-led astronomy programs. Guides give constellation tours and share telescopes for viewing.
Why Big Cypress is Worth Visiting
If you enjoy experiencing a unique and rare ecosystem, Big Cypress is worth visiting. There are fewer people in Big Cypress than in the Everglades and it has a more rugged, wildness about it. The trees, plants, the scent of Cypress, and the sound of birds in the canopy make it a special place. The moist woodsy environment is a rare and fascinating landscape to visit.
The dry season is from November to April. You’ll find cooler weather then and lower water levels for easier hiking.
What to Bring
- Bug spray (non-negotiable!)
- Waterproof walking shoes
Read other stories about Florida here.
