A road trip through Cape Cod to Provincetown immerses you in trees and ocean breezes while the sunshine guides you to the peninsula’s end. Along the way, you’ll find over 40 miles of pristine national seashore, quaint New England towns and roadside stands, and a ton of American history to satisfy any traveler.
Once you arrive in Provincetown, you’ll get more of the same with a festive atmosphere reminiscent of Key West with tons of tourist amenities, ocean views and plenty of summer fun.
I drove from Cape Cod to Provincetown on the coastal highway along the peninsula 60 miles out to sea while staying in Massachusetts for a month on my two-year-long road trip through the United States, Mexico and Canada.
Cape Cod National Seashore
The Cape Cod National Seashore is famous for 40+ miles of sandy beach, cranberry bogs and dunes, and as a peninsula, there are several lighthouses and coastal views for miles.
To receive the National Seashore designation, a location must provide water-oriented recreation worthy of preservation for its supreme natural values, such as found on the Atlantic, Gulf, and Pacific coasts. Lakes, like the Great Lakes (Lake Michigan and Lake Superior), are also included. Most of the 43,607 acres of the Cape Cod coastline is a National Seashore.
Fun fact: President John F. Kennedy designated the Cape Cod National Seashore in 1961. He lived in Massachusetts and was an avid sailor.
While Kennedy made the national designation, Cape Cod was popular before his time. Many know Henry David Thoreau from “Walden,” but he was also a travel writer who wrote about the area in his book, “Cape Cod.” among others. He said:
“A man may stand there and put all America behind him.”
Henry David Thoreau
The Scenic Route 6A to Provincetown
Cape Cod ranges from only one to 20 miles wide and the Mid-Cape Highway US 6 takes travelers from beginning to end. Route 6A is a scenic drive 65 miles from Bourne on the Cape Cod Canal to Provincetown at the peninsula’s tip.
The highway provides a tranquil transition from life on the mainland to a vacation state of mind along the sea. I took it from Bourne and made stops along the way. Tree-lined exits can take you to popular residential towns with small downtown areas, little local shops and restaurants. Each of these has history, coastal charm and all the classic New England ocean vibes you can hope for.
Consider stopping at:
- Barnstable is known for its Cotuit oysters.
- Brewster was settled in 1656 and has several historic structures.
- Chatam has a great lighthouse.
- Truro has several popular beaches.
- Yarmouth Port Yarmouth Port is filled with resorts and nature trails.
- Wellfleet is known for its ocean fishing, surfcasting, freshwater ponds, and Wellfleet Oysters.
The drive through Cape Cod to Provincetown is through wooded forests without nearly any glimpses of the ocean beyond unless you exit. You’ll see coastal cottages, small businesses and people walking around, having brunch or relaxing on the beach.
If you’re wondering where the “other half” lives, you’ll find many here. The homes, cars, and boats (do we call yachts boats?) are beyond my comprehension, but nice to see.
Provincetown History
The northern tip of Massachusetts, 60 miles out to sea, was named Provincetown because it’s where the Mayflower pilgrims alighted before heading down the coast to Plymouth. Some people in these parts still track their ancestry to the Mayflower.
Fun fact: Cape Cod area locals call it P’town because Provincetown is a mouthful if you need to say it frequently.
Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum
You’ll see the Pilgrim Monument from a long distance. It stands 252 feet high and looks over the entirety of the cape. The visitor’s center says it’s the tallest all-granite structure in the United States and it’s the centerpiece of the Provincetown Historic District.
The museum was closed when I visited, so check its schedule, but it’s said to be full of information about the town’s history, such as the arrival of the Mayflower in 1620 and the story of the Wampanoag Nation people who lived in the area before colonist arrived. For a few dollars, a funicular will take you from the ground at Provincetown Center to High Pole Hill to see the monument and museum. If you’re up for the challenge, the climb is the 116 steps to the top.
Fun Fact: A funicular is a hillside cable railway car to take you up a steep slope.
Commercial Street
The scene on and around Commercial Street differed from the trip through Cape Cod to Provincetown. Rainbow flags waved over many doorsteps, bikers lined the streets and colorful homes and businesses played loud music and hosted a party atmosphere. The road is along the water and jam-packed with coastal cottages for rent. It reminded me of Key West without palm trees and iguanas.
As you drive from Cape Cod to Provincetown, you’ll see dozens of little independent shops and restaurants. They’re lining the streets with mobs of people walking, shopping, and eating. Most people don’t drive around town because it’s too congested to be practical and many people walk in the streets because the sidewalks are so crowded. Parking will cost you upwards of $30, but save you time and trouble. Walking, biking and scooters win the day. There are dozens of bike shops around town and renting something is probably your best bet for getting around.
Provincetown Art Colony
Provincetown is marketed as the oldest continuous art colony in America; today, several galleries and many outdoor art events occur during summer.
Sunset at MacMillan Pier
At the end of the day, many people venture over to MacMillan Pier to watch the sunset and jockey for position inside the covered pavilion at its end. But any view is a good one. Race Point beach is also a popular spot, as well as any along the coast.
Hiking Beech Forest Trail
The beauty of the cape, however, doesn’t lie entirely within the small town but on its edges in the forests and beaches. The picturesque Beech Forest Trail is probably the best way to understand and see the natural elements that make up the seashore. It has a ton of hiking and biking trails, some as short as one mile, going around the Province Lands through pine forests, sandy dunes, and cranberry bogs. The Province Lands Bike Trail connects to Herring Cove, Race Point beaches, and Bennett Pond.
Race Point Beach
Race Point Beach is free, but parking isn’t. This is probably the most popular of at least six Cape Cod National Seashore beaches and is nearest to downtown. The drive is about two miles down a lovely, wooded road filled with wild dunes. From the road, I could see paved trails in the woods for bikes and walkers to get to the beach, but if you have a car, it costs $25 to park in any of the lots lining the shore near Cape Cod beaches.
It’s worth noting that the guard and fences block the entire shoreline, so nobody with a vehicle can get close without paying. Unlike some public lands, you must pay to boondock camp here. If you have a self-contained vehicle, you can camp for up to 21 days, but the permit fee is $225 regardless of the number of days you stay.
While the beaches have long stretches of white sand, the water might be less welcoming. Signs warning of sharks prepared visitors with “shark smart tips,” lest you be caught unaware.
Shark Smart Tips
- Be aware sharks hunt for seals in shallow water.
- Stay close to shore where rescuers can reach you.
- Don’t isolate yourself. Swim, paddle, kayak, and surf in groups.
- Avoid areas where seals are present.
- Avoid areas where schools of fish are visible.
- Avoid murky or low-visibility water.
- Limit splashing.
If the shark warnings make you nervous about getting the water, spending time among the trees is just as nice. There are many hiking and biking trails along the national seashore and the National Park Service offers excellent maps.
If you drive Cape Cod to Provincetown
Plan to stay overnight, so you have plenty of time to stop at some small towns along the way and sample the oysters, other seafood, enjoy the nightlife and visit local shops. Make sure you have good walking shoes, bring your zest for adventure, and plenty of money for parking.
Read more stories about Massachusetts here.
