Two-thirds of St. John is protected as Virgin Islands National Park, making it the most naturally preserved of the U.S. Virgin Islands. In one day here, you can hike through tropical forests, lounge on the beach in a turquoise bay and explore centuries of history. It’s part park, part vacation destination. And it’s gloriously uncrowded.
Getting to & Around the U.S. Virgin Islands
The reason it’s uncrowded is because it’s not easy to get to. Most USVI visitors fly into St. Thomas, then take a ferry to St. John.
Tip: Flights over open ocean can be turbulent — morning flights are typically smoother.
Ferries Between the Islands
To reach St. John, you must take a ferry or car barge from Red Hook, St. Thomas. The ride is scenic and takes about 20 minutes. But first, you should rent a vehicle. You’ll be driving, and availability at the airport will be higher than on St. John.
Driving on the Islands
Rent a Jeep or SUV to tackle St. John’s steep, curvy roads. Here’s the twist: you drive on the left side of the road, but vehicles have U.S.-style steering. It feels strange at first, but you’ll adapt quickly.
Road Tip: Expect hairpin turns and cliffside switchbacks. Driving here feels like part adventure, part amusement ride — with unforgettable views. Just watch out for the donkeys!
St. John Wild Donkeys
The donkeys on St. John were originally brought over during the plantation and colonial era by Danish settlers. They were used as pack animals and for hauling goods, water, and wood on the steep terrain. They were the main transport when sugar-cane plantations were common. When plantation sugar economies declined, many donkeys were abandoned and formed feral populations. Today, they roam the island freely in small groups, often in hillside, rural, or less-developed areas.
Tip: Use caution and drive slowly on switchbacks — donkeys often wander onto roads and can catch drivers by surprise.
Top Hikes in Virgin Islands National Park
Ram Head Trail
This stunning coastal hike, which leads to panoramic sea views, is about two miles long. This easy trail is along a rocky coastline. It leads to several beaches, which are great spots for swimming and snorkeling after your hike.
Reef Bay Trail
A moderate to strenuous 2.2 trek through rainforest that ends at the Reef Bay Sugar Estate. This train gains over 1,000 feet in elevation. Along the way you’ll see old buildings and steam-powered machinery and interpretive signs. A side trail at mile 1.6 leads to a waterfall and petroglyphs attributed to early Taino Indians.
Cinnamon Bay Trail
The nature loop is an easy half-mile hike. It’s an easy, shaded trail rich with history — you’ll pass the ruins of an old sugar mill and estate grounds reclaimed by nature. For a more adventurous hike, try the strenuous 1-mile Cinnamon Bay Trail, which begins east of the ruins.
Learn more about hikes in Virgin Islands National Park.
History, Culture & Nature Intertwined
St. John’s past is woven into its trails and beaches. In the 1700s, St. John was covered in sugar estates powered by enslaved labor. Today, you can see their ruins and learn about their history from signage and park rangers.
Annaberg Plantation Ruins: These seaside ruins are one of the island’s most significant and accessible historical sites. They include a windmill tower, former enslaved quarters, the sugar factory, animal mill and interpretive displays. In 1733, St. John saw one of the earliest major slave revolts in the Caribbean — a defining moment in its history. You’ll learn about it here
Catherineberg Plantation: The ruins of this plantation show a well-preserved Danish colonial period site. Like the Annaberg and Cinnamon Bay sugar mill operations, Catherineberg’s enslaved labor force produced sugar. The road is rural and rutted. Drive cautiously to park near the ruins, or park at the base of the hill and hike up.
Coral Bay & Local Life
The east side of the island is the quieter side. Coral Bay includes bohemian island bars, laid-back cafes, and a small community. It’s perfect for hanging out and meeting people. I found a few food trucks and several vendors selling food and drinks along the road.
Beaches in St. John
The beaches in St. John are among the most beautiful and picturesque you will find anywhere. Turquoise water flows into carved bays, lined with coral reefs protecting the sheltered beaches from harsh waves. There’s a reason these beaches are considered the best in the world.
Trunk Bay
Arguably, the most photographed beach in the Caribbean. Trunk Bay is famous for its underwater snorkeling trail, clear waters, and sugar-white sand. There are also food vendors and other amenities here. It’s the quintessential Caribbean beach experience.
Tip: Arrive early — the parking lot is small and fills up fast.
Cinnamon Bay
A long stretch of beach with more space and parking than Trunk Bay. It’s perfect for swimming, lounging, and light exploration. You’ll find camping areas, kayak rentals, and historic ruins nearby. It combines nature, history, and convenience.
Tip: Walk the Cinnamon Bay Nature Trail to see the remnants of a sugar plantation.
Waterlemon Cay & Leinster Bay Trail
A perfect mix of hiking and snorkeling — you’ll walk along the coast, then swim around the cay’s coral reef. It’s less crowded, has more parking and a heavy dose of history.
Shopping on St. John
Shopping on St. John reflects the island itself — artful, local, and full of character. You won’t find chain stores on this island.
- Mongoose Junction (Cruz Bay): Stone courtyards lined with artisan boutiques and jewelry stores. This is the main shopping area.
- Wharfside Village: Beachfront shops offering resort wear and souvenirs.
- The Marketplace: A mix of shops, groceries, and galleries.
- Coral Bay: Small local artisan markets, perfect for handmade crafts.
What‘s for Sale
- Jewelry: Designs include a lot of sea-glass, coral, and island motifs like the hook or island knot.
- Local Art: Paintings, straw ornaments, ceramics, and wood carvings that capture Caribbean life.
- Beachwear: Linen, tropical prints, and beachwear with a relaxed island style.
- Food stuff: Locally made hot sauces and spice blends. Check out the St. John Spice Company for the popular Cruz Bay Grill Rub, Blind Betty hot sauce, or Spiced Butter Rum coffee.
Fun Fact: The island Hook is inspired by the island’s fishing heritage. It embodies luck, protection, and belonging or love. You’ll see jewelry with hooks everywhere, bracelets, especially. They say if you wear the hook facing inward (toward the heart), you’re taken or in love. If you wear the hook facing outward, you’re single or open to love. Easier than a status update!
Quick Travel Tips for the U.S. Virgin Islands
Do I need a passport to visit the Virgin Islands? Not if you’re a U.S. citizen — the U.S. Virgin Islands are a U.S. territory. Bring a passport only if you plan to visit the nearby British Virgin Islands.
Which Virgin Island is best?
- St. John: Natural, wild, and great for hiking.
- St. Thomas: Bustling and easy to access.
- St. Croix: Larger and full of history.
Are the Virgin Islands affordable?
Not exactly. Expect around $30–$40 per meal and small beach access fees — but the experience is worth it, IMO.
St. John is more than a tropical getaway — it’s a living museum of nature, history, and resilience. From ancient ruins to handcrafted jewelry, this island connects you to the Caribbean’s wild beauty and its human story.
Whether you hike the rainforest trails, snorkel the reefs, or shop and lounge, there’s something for everyone. It’s not easy to get to, but it’s worth a trip.
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