Where else can you start your hike in the summer sun and end it atop a mountain in the snow? One place is Rocky Mountain National Park. My days here were filled with ever-changing landscapes, elevations and weather, making it a singular and delightful place.
Let’s not forget the beauty. Doing nothing more than driving up and staring for a day would be good, too. The Rocky Mountains stun the senses. They inspire poets to write. Climbers feel the urge to climb. Dreamers like me imagine we can hike a lot more than we actually can.
You could do any of those things. Do them all, if you can. You’ll be pleased with your visit if you do nothing more than drive this park from end to end. Each season offers something different, so returning is a good idea.
On May 23, 2025, Rocky Mountain National Park will implement a timed entry reservation system. Bear Lake Road, a popular hiking area, requires a separate additional timed entry permit.
Things to do in Rocky Mountain National Park
I mostly hiked, did scenic driving, and watched wildlife, so I’ll focus on that. But there’s plenty more. I’ll touch on those, too.
Scenic Drives in Rocky Mountain National Park
Trail Ridge Road
This is the most famous drive in the park. It’s a high-altitude road that goes through the entire park. It reaches elevations above 12,000 feet and some sections are not for the faint of heart. They had me gripping my wheel and holding my breath. But it is worth it. Expect breathtaking views of alpine tundra, forests, and wildlife.
You can easily spend an entire day on this drive. Plan to stop a lot. There are scenic overlooks every few miles and each offers a different perspective. The elevation constantly shifts. So you might go from summer to winter within an hour and have a different season to take in.
Hot tip: Watch for overlooks. There are several, so be prepared to stop. It’s not possible to turn around and you’ll miss great views.
I saw many snow-shoeing and cross-country skiing at the top, not too far from elk, deer, and moose. There are bighorn sheep in these mountains, too. You’ll also find:
- Alpine Visitor Center: Learn about the park’s ecology and history (summer only).
- Rainbow Curve: A stunning viewpoint. Lava Cliffs: Unique geological formations.
- Forest Canyon Overlook: Views of the canyon and surrounding forests.
Check with rangers and the NPS website for road conditions. Sometimes, they close Trail Ridge Road in the winter and you can’t drive all the way through. If you can, you’ll go through the park. Otherwise, you’ll have to turn around. This is not a drive for the faint of heart, but it is a stunner!
Hot tip: Dress in layers. The weather changes drastically! I went from hot to cold multiple times.
Old Fall River Road
You might consider traveling Old Fall River Road if you’re more of a rugged adventurer. You’ll need a high-clearance vehicle and four-wheel drive. I didn’t drive it since it’s a more challenging, unpaved road. It’s not suitable for RVs, low-clearance vehicles, or vehicles over 25 feet in length. But it offers stunning views of mountains, forests, and valleys at elevations above 11,000 feet. you’ll be able to access different park areas most don’t see.
This was the first road to cross inside the park, built between 1913 and 1920. It’s a one-way, uphill dirt road with steep grades and sharp switchbacks.
Key Features
- Chasm Falls: A short walk from the road leads to a viewing platform for this waterfall. It takes a 25-foot drop on the Fall River, cascading through a narrow gorge.
- Seasonal Access: Depending on snow conditions, typically open from early July to mid-October.
Hot tips: Prepare to go slow; the road is narrow and winding, with a speed limit of 15 mph. Inquire about current conditions at the park visitor center before you go.
Bear Lake Road Corridor
The Bear Lake Road is a 9.2-mile-long dead-end gateway to incredible scenic views of the alpine lake, Hallett Peak and the Continental Divide. You’ll need a special timed permit to gain access to it.
This is not a through road. It winds through a beautiful alpine environment. The road offers views of mountains, forests, and meadows. It dead ends at the Bear Lake Parking Area and trailhead. Along this road are several hiking trails. However, parking is limited at this lot and those along the way. Shuttles from the main lot at the front commonly take hikers to the trailheads. However, you may drive for the views or enjoy them on the shuttle. You might get a parking spot at a trailhead, but it’s not likely.
Bear Lake Shuttle Route provides access to numerous trails. These include the popular Bear Lake Trail, Sprague Lake Trail, and Alberta Falls Trail. Some trails can reach elevations above 9,000 feet. I hiked from spring conditions at Bear Lake into snowy elevations at Fern Lake in one afternoon.
Shuttle stops:
- Parking lot
- Bierstadt Lake Trailhead
- Glacier Gorge Trailhead
- Bear Lake
Historic Architecture and Centers In RMNP
There are several buildings of historic architectural importance in Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s worth stopping to see them.
Beaver Meadows Visitor Center – East side of the park
Beaver Meadows Visitor Center is on the east side of RMNP near Estes Park, along U.S. Highway 36, about one mile east of the Beaver Meadows Entrance. It’s open year-round.
This visitor center is a National Historic Landmark. Tom Casey of Taliesin Architects, a design firm started by Frank Lloyd Wright, designed and built it in 1967. Beaver Meadows Visitor Center embodies the National Park Service’s modern architecture and Wright’s belief in organic architecture. The building attempts to integrate into its surroundings.
Kawuneeche Visitor Center – West side of the park
The Kawuneeche Visitor Center is located north of Grand Lake on U.S. Highway 34, near Grand Lake, Colorado. It’s a great place to get information about the Holzwarth Historic Site nearby and learn about interpretive programs.
Holzwarth Historic Site
Holzwarth Historic Site is where the Never Summer Ranch, Holzwarth Trout Lodge, and homestead were located. The Holzwarth family operated them through multiple generations from the 1910s to 1970s. It’s about eight miles from the Kawuneeche Visitor Center.
In 1917, John and Sophia Holzwarth used the Homestead Act of 1862. They built a home on 160 acres high in the Rocky Mountains in the Kawuneeche Valley. These German immigrants left a legacy of their heritage. They included many original furnishings and linens. A rare Admiral Blue stove is still displayed.
- During the summer, the buildings are open and interpretive staff and volunteers provide tours from 9:30 am – 2:30 pm. The grounds of Holzwarth Historic Site are open 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, year-round.
Other RMNP Visitor Centers
Fall River Visitor Center
The Fall River Visitor Center is west of Estes Park on U.S. Highway 34, just before the Fall River Entrance.
Alpine Visitor Center
This is a seasonal visitor center open only during the summer. It’s at the top of Trail Ridge Road.
Moraine Park Discovery Center
Located along Bear Lake Road, the Moraine Park Discovery Center is closed for the 2024/2025 winter season. This is a seasonal visitor center, open from late May through mid-October.
Sheep Lakes Information Station
Sheep Lakes, located in Horseshoe Park, is a great place to view wildlife. This parking area and viewpoint are open year-round and unstaffed during the fall/winter.
Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park
Rocky Mountain National Park offers diverse hikes for all experience levels. There are many options to list, but here are a few to consider.
Easy/Moderate:
- Bear Lake Loop: A short, easy loop around a beautiful alpine lake. Perfect for families or those looking for a leisurely stroll.
- Emerald Lake Trail: A moderately challenging hike with stunning views of Emerald Lake.
- Nymph Lake Trail: A gradual ascent to Nymph Lake, with options to continue to Dream Lake and beyond.
Moderate/Difficult:
- Sky Pond via Glacier Gorge Trail: A challenging but rewarding hike with incredible views of the surrounding peaks.
- Mills Lake via Glacier Gorge Trail: Offers stunning views of Longs Peak and the surrounding landscape.
- Alpine Ridge Trail: A challenging hike with panoramic views of the park.
- Alberta Falls: A popular and relatively easy hike that rewards visitors with a beautiful waterfall.
Tips for Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park
- Plan Ahead: Check trail conditions and weather forecasts and obtain necessary permits.
- Pack for All Weather: The weather in the mountains can change rapidly, so be prepared for all conditions. Temperatures on one of my hikes dropped about 15 degrees.
Wildlife Viewing in Rocky Mountain National Park
Bring your binoculars and prepare to stop often. Animals and birds abound in this park.
- Elk are common throughout the park, especially in meadows and open areas. Look for them in Moraine Park, Horseshoe Park, and Trail Ridge Road.
- Bighorn Sheep are often seen on rocky cliffs and slopes.
- Mule Deer are widespread throughout the park.
- Moose can be seen in the Kawuneeche Valley near Grand Lake. It’s where I saw my first moose – then I saw several!
- Black Bears are less common but possible in forested areas. (Check out the Great Smoky Mountains to see these magnificent beasts!)
- Marmots are common along Trail Ridge Road and Old Fall River Road.
- Pika are small, furry animals that live in rock piles.
Tip: Consider a ranger-led wildlife viewing program for a more in-depth experience. They know the best spots to go and have pro tips on what to look for when sighting the animals.
Wild Basin Area
The Continental Divide runs the length of the park. Waters on the park’s west side form the headwaters of the Colorado River. East-side streams and rivers are part of the Mississippi drainage.
Fun Fact: Rocky Mountain is the only national park in the nation with reserved water rights.
Biking, Camping, Fishing, Climbing, Horseback Riding in RMNP
There are many other things to do in Rocky Mountain National Park, like bicycling – man, those people must have legs and lungs! Fishing – I saw many fly fishers, rock climbing, horseback riding and camping.
I didn’t do any of these activities, so I can’t speak to them. But if they’re things you’re interested in, then this park offers several options. It also has a beautiful environment for doing them.
Where to stay near Rocky Mountain National Park
Typically, I camp, but I stayed at hotels just outside the park each night this trip. There are five campgrounds in RMNP. However, the small towns surrounding the RMNP on the east and West side are charming and yet another aspect of the experience.
I stayed in Estes Park on the east side and Grand Lake on the west side. Both of these towns are close to Rocky Mountain National Park.
Visit the official Rocky Mountain National Park website for the most up-to-date information and trail descriptions. Several non-official websites seem official but might not have up-to-date closure and permit information, so be aware.
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