The drive to Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a long, lonely thread through a sea of waving prairie grass. Hours blur through a landscape of one-gas-station towns, their main streets lined with cafes and bars that time has forgotten. Then, you arrive at what’s left of the American frontier.
It’s a stark contrast to the relentless march of consumerism that’s swallowed so much of the world. How could this vast expanse of North Dakota have remained so untamed? This was the gateway to a place that felt glorious and utterly alien. No wonder Roosevelt wanted to save it.
A Glimpse into North Dakota’s Past
Theodore Roosevelt began visiting the area in his 20s and often returned. What he found solidified his connection to the wilderness and shaped his conservation legacy.
“We have become great because of the lavish use of our resources. But the time has come to inquire seriously what will happen when our forests are gone, when the coal, the iron, the oil, and the gas are exhausted, when the soils have still further impoverished and washed into the streams, polluting the rivers, denuding the fields and obstructing navigation.”
Theodore Roosevelt
In 1906, Roosevelt established the American Antiquities Act. He protected wildlife and public lands by creating 150 national forests, 51 federal bird reserves, four national game preserves, five national parks, and 18 national monuments.
This park is a testament to all that inspired him. It is a sanctuary to the historic beauty of the American West.
Theodore Roosevelt protected about 230 million acres of public land during his presidency.
Three Units, One Park: Roosevelt National Park North
The park is in western North Dakota. It’s split into three units: the South Unit is near Medora, the North Unit is north of Watford City, and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit is a remote site between the two. You may need a four-wheel drive and high-clearance vehicle to get there.
Things to See and Do in the South Unit
The first location you’ll spot is the visitor center. Behind it, miles of badlands, grasslands and painted canyons. Be prepared; you’re going to stand there a while.
Wildlife thrives here. Bison roam freely, their massive forms silhouetted against the horizon. Prairie dogs pop up from their burrows, their chatter everywhere across the plains. And the wild horses, standing majestically on the cliffs, are a sight that will stay with you.
Fun fact: Grasslands are the most common area in the park. They are composed mostly of saltgrass, western wheatgrass, needle-and-thread, and little bluestem.
Scenic Loop Drive is a must-do. It is a 36-mile journey through a landscape with breathtaking vistas. Each turn reveals painted rocks, rolling hills, and majestic animals.
Scenic Loop Drive is a must-do, a 36-mile journey through a landscape with breathtaking vistas, with each turn revealing painted rocks, rolling hills and majestic animals.
Painted Canyon is an unforgettable introduction to the park’s dramatic geology. The layers of rock, tinted in hues of red, yellow, brown, purple, blue and green, tell an ancient story. Hiking trails weave through this stunning landscape.
Maltese Cross Cabin is Theodore Roosevelt’s original cabin. It’s a simple structure that stands as a reminder of Roosevelt’s early days here. It offers a glimpse into his early days in the Dakota Territory.
Visit the Petrified Forest. You’ll have to hike to find it. It will take about a 1.5-mile hike from a parking lot through prairie and badlands, ending in a forest of petrified wood. The Petrified Forest Loop is about 10 miles long and is filled with ancient stumps of former trees. The wood feels like a hollow rock, ancient and strange.
I was surprised to find a wild black horse standing alone amid the stone ruins. (Though it was a hot day, were it not for the photos, I’d think it was a hallucination.) The horse stood in a circle of dead wood, watching me, kicking its legs, absorbing the extreme heat of the valley. He never advanced and I cautiously moved past him.
Fun Fact: One of the largest deposits of petrified wood in the United States is in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. You’ll find more at Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona.
The Wild Horses in Theodore Roosevelt National Park: A Symbol of Freedom or Menace?
People debate the wild horses’ presence in the park. Some want them removed; I question why humans feel the need to control everything. Driving through the vast, sparsely populated landscape, it seems absurd to argue that these animals need further mitigation. The world doesn’t belong only to humans and you’ll never change my mind. Let the animals live as they did before we encroached on them. They symbolize the untamed spirit of the place, resisting human control. We should salute them.
Today, wild and free, they roam the badlands like nothing I’ve ever seen. Seeing a free horse stirs something in the American spirit.
How to see the horses: The horses can be spotted in the park’s Southeast area near the Talkington trailhead off Exit 36 on I-94. You can also see them at lookout points like Painted Canyon, Buck Hill, or Wind Canyon. Wild horses inhabit the South Unit only and are maintained as a cultural resource, often visible from the Scenic Loop Drive and I-94.
Medora: A Town Beyond Time
I stayed in Medora, the gateway town to the South Unit and it was a journey back in time. There are a few hotels, wooden mercantile shops, beef and bison cafes, and a distinct lack of fast-food chains. I want to say it’s “reminiscent” of a frontier town, but I think it might still be a frontier town. It seems remarkably unchanged. It’s a reminder that this part of America still clings to its roots. Somebody has to.
- It has a “Wild West” feel, with restaurants, shops, and attractions geared toward tourists.
- Expect meat-heavy menus and a lack of fast-food chains. Do not come looking for lettuce and quinoa. You will leave sorely disappointed, or hungry.
Reasons to Visit the North Unit
The North Unit, near Watford City, offers a more secluded experience. If you love visiting national parks like I do, you know how special that is. You’ll find plenty of solitude here.
- You can see a herd of longhorn steers at the park’s entrance. (Bring binoculars!)
- The Scenic Byway is a 14-mile drive through rugged canyons and towering buttes. It ends at Oxbow Overlook. It’s a breathtaking view of a riverbed.
- The Cannonball Concretions. These unique geological formations are enormous, perfectly round rocks. Not so exciting? But wait. These results are from mineral-rich water seeping down through the porous layers of stone. The minerals then glue the sediments together forming a ball that is exposed as the butte erodes. Sometimes, the giant ball falls out of the butte. You’ve probably never seen anything like this before. I hadn’t.
- But the bison herds in the North Unit will slay you. (maybe literally, if you’re foolish). Watching a herd of a hundred bison move through the waving grassland was an incredible sight. It made me feel like I was watching a scene from the past.
- Riverbend Overlook is a prime spot for sunset viewing.
Fun Fact: Remember the massive bison herd scene in the movie “Dances With Wolves”? It was filmed nearby in Stanley County, South Dakota. You’ll see something similar in real life here. Really. Let me be eloquent here and say, it’s just WOW.
Elkhorn Ranch Unit
Roosevelt’s North Dakota home was Midway between the two main units along the Little Missouri River. For those seeking profound solitude, the Elkhorn Ranch Site, Roosevelt’s “home ranch,” offers a glimpse into his personal connection to this land.
Elkhorn Ranch Unit, home of Roosevelt’s ranch, is 218 acres. This is the least visited portion of the park, accessed along a gravel road. I traveled alone and didn’t visit.
What is there to see and do in Theodore Roosevelt National Park?
Scenic Drives that’ll make your jaw drop. The South Unit’s Scenic Loop Drive is a classic. Make sure not to miss the North Unit’s Scenic Byway for a more solitary experience.
- South Unit Scenic Loop Drive (36 miles): A must-do for first-timers. Expect stunning badlands views and wildlife sightings.
- North Unit Scenic Byway (14 miles): More secluded, yet it offers equally impressive landscapes. You will be amazed by the bison herds.
Hiking in Painted Canyon in the south unit is a must-see. The Petrified Forest hike is a journey into another time. (bring water, water, water) Watch out for those pesky, lovely wild (feral) horses.
- The trails vary from easy walks to moderate hikes. There isn’t much elevation gain in the park. Dodging bison and horses will be the biggest difficulty.
- In the south unit, the Petrified Forest hike is more strenuous but well worth it.
Find more hikes and camping information on the park service website.
Visitor Centers offer valuable information about the park’s history, geology, and wildlife. The rangers are always a great source of the latest information. Talk to them!
- Painted Canyon Visitor Center features panoramic views. It offers wildlife viewing and hiking trails. There is a staffed info desk. Visitors can enjoy exhibits and displays. There is a gift shop and restrooms available, etc.
- South Unit Visitor Center: Rangers staff the desk and issue backcountry permits. Maltese Cross Cabin is just outside. There’s a bookstore, museum and more.
- North Unit Visitor Center: A small visitor center in a trailer at the park entrance. Speak with a ranger, get a backcountry permit, purchase a souvenir at the bookstore, or watch the park film.
How Much Time to Spend in Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Plan to spend at least two days seeing the North and South Units. You’ll need more time for hiking and wildlife viewing. Two days is good if you’re mostly going to drive around.
North Unit vs. South Unit: Which is Better?
Impossible to say.
The south unit has wild horses. It may have more prairie dogs. I’m unsure if that’s a pro or a con; the word “infestation” comes to mind. Seeing wild horses lights up something inside of me. Each person who witnessed had the same sense of awe. We had to drag ourselves away.
The North Unit is more truly remote. Fewer people, bigger bison herds, and those crazy “cannonball concretions” I’ve never seen anywhere else. In the North Unit, you’ll really get the sense of being at the “last frontier.” This is what America must have looked like 200 years ago. Just wild land and wild animals.
In both units, you’ll feel like the land is wild and free and see why Roosevelt loved it. We may never be able to return to past times. At least some places like this still exist.
Is Theodore Roosevelt Park Worth Visiting?
If you like long, lovely drives, yes. Getting there is part of the adventure. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is more than just a scenic destination. It’s a journey into the heart of the American West. It’s a place where the past and present collide. The spirit of the wilderness endures.
It’s about feeling the vastness of the land, the raw power of nature. It makes you think about humans’ place in the world and what we’ve lost and can still save. It’s a place that, for a little while, lets you escape the consumerism we’ve created everywhere else. You can find a little bit of wildness within yourself.
Practical Tips
- Gas stations can be few and far between, so fill up when you can. Some towns I drove through didn’t even have gas stations, so don’t be a daredevil.
- Cell service can be spotty in remote areas. Screenshot your maps.
- Respect the wildlife and stay on designated trails. Wild horses and roaming buffalo pop up all over the place. Stay at least 25 feet away. You might be tempted to get closer because they seem timid and harmless. My brother used to say, fuck around and you’re going to find out. You will not like the outcome.
As always, Leave No Trace
- Plan ahead and prepare
- Travel and camp on durable surfaces
- Dispose of waste properly
- Leave what you find
- Minimize campfire impacts
- Respect wildlife
- Be considerate of other visitors
