It may seem like just a swamp, but Everglades National Park is anything but that. They call it the “River of Grass,” and it’s a rare subtropical wilderness unlike anywhere else on Earth.
Its nickname comes from the slow, shallow water that flows subtly through most of the park. And it’s not the only thing moving here. The Everglades is a remarkable place where alligators and crocodiles coexist, and there are a lot of them. With over 200,000 alligators and about 2,000 crocodiles, you won’t find another park quite so wild.
The Everglades Unveiled: What Makes It Special
Beyond the fascinating gators and crocs, the Everglades ecosystem has incredible biodiversity. This makes it a habitat for a stunning number of animals from the Florida panther to manatees. But it’s more than just animals; it’s globally recognized for several reasons.
- Vast Wilderness: Approximately 86% of the park is protected wilderness, covering roughly 1.5 million acres. This makes it the third-largest protected area in the contiguous United States, after Death Valley (3.4 million acres) and Yellowstone (2.2 million acres).
- A Flowing River: Despite its immense size, the Everglades is remarkably flat. The elevation changes by less than 20 feet over its 100-mile length. This subtle slope is less than two inches per mile. Unlike a typical river that flows in a channel with distinct banks, the Everglades’ river is a broad, shallow sheet. The sawgrass is a sharp-edged sedge that grows in the water, covering vast expanses of the Everglades, creating the phenomenon.
- Diverse Micro-Habitats: The subtle elevation changes create distinct ecosystems. They include sawgrass marshes, freshwater sloughs, wet prairies, hardwood tree islands, cypress swamps, and mangrove forests—the largest mangrove ecosystem in North America.
- Global Recognition: Its ecological significance makes it a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an International Biosphere Reserve, and a Wetland of International Importance.
Planning Your Everglades Adventure
Visiting the Everglades is more about exploring different habitats and spotting various animals than it is about hiking. Plan to spend a lot of time driving and staring in awe as the landscape shifts. Here’s what you need to know to plan your trip:
- Best Time to Visit: The dry season (November to April) is ideal. You’ll enjoy cooler temperatures, fewer mosquitoes, and more wildlife viewing as water levels recede. Visiting in the early morning or late afternoon for the most excellent solitude and more active wildlife.
How Many Days Do You Need?
- One Day: Focus on one of the three main areas. (You can’t cross easily between the areas, so driving is necessary and takes time).
- Two Days: Explore two different areas, like Homestead/Flamingo and Shark Valley.
- Three+ Days: Take a tour or two and get a more in-depth exploration of all three areas.
Getting Around: A car is essential for flexibility and connecting between the distant park entrances. Bike rentals are also available at Shark Valley for exploring that specific area.
Accommodation:
- Inside the Park: Flamingo Campground offers traditional camping and glamping tents.
- Outside the Park: Find various options around the three entrances in Homestead, Florida City, Naples, and Everglades City. Staying in Miami, just over an hour away, has the most options.
Everglades National Park has three distinct entrances, each providing a unique perspective and access to different ecosystems. Roads within the park are not connected.
Homestead Entrance and Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center:
This is the most popular eastern entrance, near Homestead and Florida City. It’s named after Ernest Coe, the “father of the Everglades,” for his contributions to the park’s establishment.
- What you’ll find: Educational displays, orientation films about the park’s history, geology, and wildlife, and helpful park rangers.
- Accesses: This entrance leads to the Royal Palm Area and the main park road. It continues south for 38 miles to Flamingo, with several short trails and overlooks along the way.
Shark Valley (Miami Entrance):
Approximately 30 miles west of Miami, this location offers a distinctly different experience. It’s centered in the heart of the freshwater sawgrass marsh.
- What you’ll find: Educational displays about the Shark Valley ecosystem and a gift shop.
- Things to Do: The main attraction is the 15-mile paved loop road. You can explore it by biking, a tram tour with a guided naturalist, or walking the loop.
- Highlight: The Observation Tower, halfway around the loop, is a 70-foot-high structure with views of the vast sawgrass marsh.
- Unique Experience: Consider a Ranger-Led Wet Walk (Slough Slog). This experience involves wading through the water with a ranger. But first, read about all the animals you could encounter below.
Gulf Coast (Everglades City Entrance):
This entrance is on the western side in Everglades City. It’s a gateway to the coastal environments, particularly the famous Ten Thousand Islands.
- What you’ll find: This area is centered around mangrove islands, brackish waterways, and the Gulf of Mexico.
Popular Water-Based Activities:
- Ten Thousand Islands Boat Tour: This is a popular way to explore the maze of mangrove islands. You’ll see dolphins, manatees, and birds. It’s a great way to experience even solo, as you’re part of a guided tour.
- Kayaking/Canoeing: For brave paddlers, this area offers a chance to immerse yourself in the wilderness. You’ll have to navigate mangrove tunnels and open bays.
- Wilderness Camping: For the adventurous, this area is the starting point for overnight wilderness trips. Stay along the 99-mile Wilderness Waterway or other coastal routes. This involves camping on elevated chickees (wooden platforms over the water) or designated ground sites on small islands.
Top spots to explore in Everglades National Park
Royal Palm Area (from Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center):
- Anhinga Trail: A boardwalk over a freshwater slough. It offers close-up views of alligators, turtles, and numerous wading birds.
- Gumbo Limbo Trail: A short, paved loop through a dense tropical hardwood hammock. It’s a pretty, shaded walk among unique trees and air plants.
Flamingo Area (South of Homestead Entrance)
- Guy Bradley Visitor Center: This is a large visitor center and marina. Spot manatees and crocodiles (often seen near the docks). This is a hub for information and facilities. I saw over a dozen manatees here.
- Canoeing/Kayaking: Explore mangrove tunnels and waterways to gain a unique perspective on the park’s ecosystems.
- Snake Bight Trail: It leads to a small bay in Florida Bay, often an excellent spot for birdwatching.
Shark Valley (Miami Entrance)
- Shark Valley Tram Road (Loop): Explore this 15-mile paved loop road by walking, biking, or on a guided tram tour.
- Observation Tower: Located approximately halfway around the loop, this 70-foot-high tower provides panoramic views of the vast sawgrass marsh.
- Ranger-Led Wet Walk (Slough Slog): An immersive experience wading through the slough with a ranger. I love adventure, but this is something you will never find me doing.
Gulf Coast Area (Everglades City):
- Ten Thousand Islands Boat Tour: This is the most popular way to experience the area. Guided pontoon boat tours explore the intricate maze of mangrove islands, where you can see dolphins, manatees, and water birds.
- Kayaking/Canoeing in the Ten Thousand Islands: For experienced paddlers, this offers a chance to immerse yourself in the wilderness. Use animal safety!
Abundant Wildlife of the Everglades
The Everglades is a wildlife haven unlike other national parks in the United States. Here’s what you might encounter:
- The coexistence of both American alligators and American crocodiles in the wild is a unique phenomenon. The Everglades is the only place in the entire world where you can find them living side-by-side. There are approximately 200,000 alligators and around 2,000 crocodiles in South Florida, many in the park.
- Birds: It’s a bird watcher’s paradise. You’ll find rare anhingas, herons, egrets, roseate spoonbills, pelicans, and many more.
- Florida panthers: The tawny-beige cats are a critically endangered subspecies of mountain lion. Current estimates suggest that 120-230 adult panthers are remaining in the wild. It makes them one of the rarest mammals in the world.
- Manatees: Often seen near docks for freshwater, these big, gray, torpedo-shaped beasts have a paddle-shaped tail. They’re an iconic resident of Florida’s waterways, often called “sea cows.” Adult manatees can grow over 13 feet long and weigh more than 3,500 pounds. The Florida manatee is currently listed as a threatened species under the federal Endangered Species Act.
Troublemaker animals
- Snakes: There are at least a dozen different types of snakes in the Everglades. However, none are more worrisome than the Burmese Python. These non-native constrictors reach lengths of over 20 feet and prey on raccoons, opossums, rabbits, bobcats, and deer. The US Geological Survey estimates there are “tens of thousands of Burmese pythons” in the region. They’re highly camouflaged, so don’t go stumbling around.
- Vultures: Yes, vultures. They’re so prevalent that at some parking areas, signs warn about potential vehicle damage. They peck at and tear apart rubber and vinyl components on vehicles. This includes windshield wipers, rubber seals around windows, and weather stripping. This is most prevalent at the Royal Palm Visitor Center and Flamingo Marina area parking lots.
Embrace the Wild of the Everglades
A journey through Everglades National Park is an unforgettable experience, offering a profound connection to nature and the freedom to explore at your own pace. This unique subtropical wilderness, with its incredible biodiversity and vast, tranquil landscapes, invites introspection and adventure in equal measure.
So, are you ready to take the leap and experience this incredible park?
Read more stories about Florida here.
1 Comment