They say the Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada is named for the red sandstone formations, but it’s probably also the intense blazing heat in the park where 115-degree temperatures aren’t unusual. Still, it’s such a unique and beautiful area; the risks may be worth the reward.
The park was formed by the uplifting and faulting of geography, followed by erosion during the time of dinosaurs 150 million years ago. It now has a Mars-like landscape, with a likewise unlivable environment unless you’re a lizard. However, even the lizards have a tough time living in the Valley of Fire.
I visited the Valley of Fire with my friend Erica. We planned three hikes for the day and hoped to beat the heat, so we left early. Unfortunately, by the time we left the St. George area at about 6:15 am, it was already about 80 degrees. So much for good intentions.
As we drove the two hours into Nevada, you could watch my van’s thermostat rise like a ticker tape. I’d periodically shout out the temperature for fun.
Why It’s Called the Valley of Fire
“99-degrees!”
“We hit 100! No, wait, 101 .. 102!”
In the winter, the area averages mid-70s with an annual rainfall of just four inches. We were visiting in late June, and it is not recommended. Still, we thought we’d be ok with enough water, breaks, and air conditioning in the van between short hikes. (Darwinism is a real thing).
We seriously underestimated how much fluid we would need. And we planned to need much more than usual – which was a lot. I probably drank three gallons of liquid by the end of the day. Thank God for roadside coffee trucks and juice stands. They get me through a lot of hardships.
Closed Due to Excessive Heat
Upon arrival at the park, our plans were immediately cut short. Two of our three planned hikes were canceled because they’d closed those trails due to excessive heat. This is telling about how hot that place is. You don’t get named the Valley of Fire because you’re just “kind of” hot. You get called that when you’re murderously hot. Still, other trails were open, so resolute; we did what we could. We don’t stop at the mere threat of death.
While driving through the park on winding roads, admiring the tall red sandstone buttes in the scenic canyon, the sun beat down like it had a personal vendetta against us.
Why We Came = Fire Canyon
In the front of the park, the rock is all red. The back of the park has all-white rock. In the middle, the rock is a red and white swirl called Fire Canyon. In it is the Fire Wave. This trail, however, was closed. So we didn’t see it—Wah wah. But if you go, do so in the winter so you can.
I considered hiking past the barriers, but I knew Erica wouldn’t go for it. Her astute pragmatism probably saved my life. It wouldn’t be the first time this day.
White Domes trails
We headed to the only trail on our itinerary that was open. White Domes Trail. This fantastic rocky section of white formations was only a little over a mile long. There we climbed through the sandy white rock and narrow slot canyons. Because of the heat, after less than an hour of scrambling around on the rocks, we were already getting tired.
Extreme heat has that effect on you. You may not realize how much it’s going to impact you until it’s too late. That’s why the park closed some of the popular trails. People just aren’t prepared for what that environment does to your body. All the parks in this area have signs warning of heat exhaustion and heat stroke, but this one gives you a bright orange flier to ensure you get the message. They don’t want to scrape your chargrilled body off the rocks.
Driving Through the Valley of Fire
We drove through the park, stopping at a few scenic overlooks and getting out to walk around a bit. It’s an excellent park for driving, but you’ll see the best details and most striking rock if you hike.
As soon as we opened the van doors, it was like opening the oven to pull your cooked food out. If you touched the cement, you probably would have burned your hand.
Mouse’s Tank Trail
The next trail we hiked was Mouse’s Tank. It’s an exciting trial for two reasons. One: it has cool petroglyphs, and two: it’s named for an outlaw who used the natural hidden water tanks as a hideout in the 1890s.
These tanks are natural basins where water collects after rainfalls, sometimes lasting for months. “Mouse” stayed safely there for a while, but eventually, he had to come out, and authorities promptly caught him. There aren’t many places in this desert you can hide for long without a tank of water.
The trail is less than a mile long, but again, it feels like about five miles as you through the thick sand under the blasting furnace that is the sun above you.
I’d been living in the heat for three weeks before Erica arrived, so I was as accustomed to it as a human body can be. She was overheating, so we cooled off in the Visitor’s Center, which has some remarkable historical artifacts and information.
Elephant Rock
Near the entrance, we walked up a short trail to see Elephant Rock because Erica likes elephants and supports the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. They rescue and rehabilitate orphan elephants. You should check it out too. You can adopt an elephant for $50 a year. It’d be an excellent gift for a friend or child – and the elephant.
The rock was supposed to look like an elephant and I was sure I found the one. It wasn’t. After we turned around, we found the one that was Elephant Rock. It looked just like an elephant! We were delirious. What can I say?
Lake Mead is Nearby the Valley of Fire
At the visitor’s center, a ranger had told me that just a 20-minute drive further, we could get to a lake! In the Nevada desert! So we drove that way. When we arrived, we realized the lake was the end of Lake Mead, which was still neat, just different since it’s a reservoir.
Lake Mead, the largest reservoir in the United States, is 112 miles long and goes from the Hoover Dam near Las Vegas to Overton, Nevada, outside the Valley of Fire. Because of drought, it’s at the lowest level in history.
Dam or not, water was water, so we drove straight for it, dodging donkeys in the roadway, and found the prettiest blue water you’ve ever seen in the Nevada desert. You can take that fact to the bank.
We were so hot; the water was irresistible. We drove as close as we could get. It was odd that nobody else was around, but that didn’t stop us. We hiked down to the water’s edge, where I decided to wade in.
Sink or Swim
For most people, I suspect this is where common sense would kick in, but not me. I think Erica had heat exhaustion, so she wasn’t thinking straight. Once I got in the water, the ground felt like it was shifting below me. Then, suddenly, I sunk in up to my knees. Each movement pulled me deeper.
“Gah!” I screeched and pulled myself out. The sand acted like a sucking cup on my legs, keeping me in place. I pried myself out and moved to a more stable spot. It happened again. This time I went in up to mid-thigh. It was like quicksand.
Oh, hell, I thought. Maybe it was quicksand. What do I know? No wonder nobody else was in this stunningly beautiful water.
Erica pulled me out, and after I cleaned the thick black volcano mud from my legs, we hiked back up to the car. It was much further than I’d recalled, and that was our unintentional last hike that day.
Somehow, even an attempted dip in the water made us hotter. That is how the Valley of Fire gets its name.
Find the Valley of Fire State Park at 29450 Valley of Fire Road, Overton, Nevada 89040.
Read more stories about things to see and do near Utah/Nevada here.
Heat Stroke is no joke. The most common signs and symptoms of heat exhaustion include:
- Confusion
- Dark-colored urine (a sign of dehydration)
- Dizziness
- Fainting
- Fatigue
- Headache
- Muscle or abdominal cramps
- Nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea
- Pale skin
- Profuse sweating
- Rapid heartbeat
If you have these symptoms, immediately get out of the heat and rest in air-conditioning or a cool and shady place.
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