The drive along Cabot Trail in Cape Breton’s Highlands National Park in Nova Scotia, Canada, is unparalleled. Found on Cape Breton Island, this natural wonder includes mountains, valleys, waterfalls, rocky coastlines, Acadian and Boreal forests, the Cape Breton Highlands and White Hill, the highest point in Nova Scotia. All that is to say: it’s a spectacular drive and a beautiful place to spend a few days.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park encompasses 366 square miles in the northernmost part of the province. Established in 1936, it is one of 42 national parks in Canada. Aside from the park and the island, the Cabot Trail is the biggest draw.
The Cape Breton Coastline Along Cabot Trail
I drove to Cape Breton’s Highlands National Park and Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia during my 1.5-year solo road trip, where I lived in short-term rentals across the United States, Mexico and Canada. I made my way to this part of the woods by way of Maine and the drive was nothing short of fantastic. There’s not much out here except trees that line the pristine highways; sometimes, that’s all you need.
I’ve done a lot of driving as I’ve traversed North America, but it has seldom been as rewarding as on the Cabot Trail. The Cape Breton coastline is a beautiful, rugged stretch of land, including mountains, forests, and beaches. The rolling two-land highway traverses the island’s edge, providing unspoiled vistas, rocky seascapes and forested views. The air is fresh and pure, the sounds are mostly of nature, and the feeling is like freedom. Green, blue and brown are the primary colors, Gaelic signs along the road, and small old-world businesses will make you feel like maybe you’ve gone through a time loop.
Navigating the Cabot Trail
The Cabot Trail is a scenic 115-mile loop road that winds along the northern coast of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, Canada. You can drive in either direction, but if I did it again as a solo driver, I would do it clockwise so the ocean views are on the driver’s side. The northern coast of Cape Breton is where you’ll find Cape Breton Highlands National Park, home to the highest mountains on the island. In contrast, the southern coast has rolling hills and sandy beaches, including Ingonish, Pleasant Bay, and Louisbourg Beaches.
Fun Fact: The Cabot Trail was built in the 1930s to boost tourism to Cape Breton Island. It was named after John Cabot, an Italian explorer who landed on the island in 1497. The trail is popular for hiking, biking, camping, fishing, golfing and swimming. Many scenic viewpoints also offer stunning ocean views, mountains, and forests.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park
I explored many U.S. national parks and wanted to explore Canada’s offerings. Cape Breton Highlands National Park did not disappoint. It is home to the island’s tallest peak, White Hill, rising to 1,745 feet above sea level. This spot offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape, including the winding Cabot Trail road as it snakes along the coastline. It’s rare to find a park that provides forested, cliff-lined hiking and serene sandy beaches within a few miles of each other, but here it is common.
If peaks aren’t for you, the park has valleys, coastlines, the tundra-esque Cape Breton Highlands plateau, and two rivers – the Chéticamp and the North Aspy Rivers. This is probably the most popular area of the island where people go hiking, camping, fishing, boating and, in the winter, snowshoeing. Signs warn of moose, black bears, deer, and coyotes, but I only saw the deer; thus, my quest to see a moose in the wild continues.
Hiking Skyline trail
I’ve hiked trails all over North America, but this one is unique for several reasons. The Skyline Trail offers some of the best views in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Usually, with a trail like this, you must work pretty hard and hike long distances for the payoff, but not so with this one.
The Skyline Trail is a four-mile loop trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park in Nova Scotia, Canada. It is a popular hiking trail that offers stunning views of the Cabot Trail, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the surrounding mountains. The trail is mostly flat and easy to hike, making it an excellent option for families and beginners. Plus, you don’t have to worry about being alone – it’s the busiest trail in the park.
The moose are so prevalent they fence off areas to manage their overgrazing, but I still didn’t see any.
Cheiticamp, Cape Breton
In the evening, after a day of driving, shopping, eating, hiking and taking in the spectacular sites, I made it to my campsite in Cheiticamp, Cape Breton. For just $30 a night, campers can enjoy being near the ocean, trees and glorious highlands of Cape Breton. It’s the perfect home base for your Cape Breton’s Highlands National Park journey.
The campground here is the beginning point for plenty of trails that will take you into the forest or down to the coast, depending on your preference, making it easy to grab a hike in the morning or evening. This stretch of coast is also home to several small fishing villages, which offer a glimpse into the island’s traditional way of life. Plus, nearby, you’ll find a spectacular bakery – see below.
Gaelic Heritage
As I drove along the Cabot Trail, I noticed many signs written in Gaelic, and there is a plaid I’ve seen in a few places that piqued my interest. I learned that Nova Scotia has a Gaelic history because of the many Scottish immigrants from the Scottish Highlands, where Gaelic was the dominant language. They brought their language, culture, and traditions to Nova Scotia, which have helped shape the province’s identity.
In the early 1800s, thousands of Scottish Highlanders emigrated to the island, bringing their language, music, and culture. Today, Gaelic is still spoken by a few people on Cape Breton, and the island’s Gaelic culture is celebrated at festivals, events, and cultural institutions.
One of the best places to learn about Gaelic culture in Cape Breton is the Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts. The college offers a variety of courses in Gaelic language, music, dance, and traditional crafts. Visitors can also tour the college’s museum, which houses a collection of Gaelic artifacts.
Fun Fact: A Gaelic ceilidh is a traditional social gathering featuring music, dancing, and storytelling. Ceilidhs are held regularly throughout the island, and they’re a great way to learn about Gaelic culture on Cape Breton.
Local Mi’kmaq People
Before the Scottish immigrants came to Cape Breton, it was already populated by the Mi’kmaq (mee-guhm-ahk) people. These native people inhabited Cape Breton Island for over 10,000 years. The Mi’kmaq, who have a strong connection to the land, are known for their vibrant culture and are an essential part of the Cape Breton community. While the community has dwindled, they still have a robust presence. Several shops along the Cabot Trail sell wares made by the Mi’kmaq. Much of it is unique and though I’m a minimalist who rarely purchases much, I bought a small pottery sage bowl with a rim of braided sweetgrass made by the Mi’kmaq.
The Fortress of Louisbourg
The coastline is also home to many historical sites, including the Fortress of Louisbourg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the largest reconstructed 18th-century French fortified town in North America. The fortress was built between 1713 and 1740, and visitors can explore the reconstructed town to see what life was then, including the barracks, houses, and shops.
Shopping Along the Cabot Trail
Many artists and artisans live and work along the Cabot Trail, and the shops are independent little places selling paintings and sculptures, glass, pottery, leatherwork, etc. Other shops sell food, fresh produce, local seafood and handcrafted jams, jellies, and – this is Canada – maple syrup and maple butter.
As I drove the trail along the coastline, I often stopped to browse the shops or at the overlooks into the ocean. There are many little fishing villages but not much else except natural beauty.
Cabot Trail Food & Dining
Bakery
You can plan your dining stops at the largest small towns – Inverness, Baddeck or Chéticamp. The latter two have several dining options. Mostly this is not fine dining but rather café style, and many little seafood restaurants serve the day’s catch.
One place you must go is the AuCoin Bakery. It’s in Chéticamp and since that’s where I camped, I was lucky enough to go twice. I’ve debated moving to Nova Scotia for this bakery. Here are two reasons why: cinnamon rolls and butter tarts.
You probably know what a cinnamon roll is, but butter tarts originated in Scotland, and they were brought to Canada by Scottish settlers in the 18th century. Today, there are many different variations of butter tarts and some bakers add ingredients to the filling, such as chocolate chips, maple syrup, or bacon.
I learned about the AuCoin butter tarts from a woman in Virginia. When I told her I was going to Nova Scotia, she made me promise I’d stop at AuCoin. Now I’m going to extract the same promise from you. Please go. It will make your heart happy.
These tarts are so good I took notes in my journal: “It was the most melt-in-my-mouth delicious thing I’ve ever eaten in my life. I don’t even know what the filling was – butter? But it and the dough, omg, the dough was so good.” Find the bakery at 105 Petit Etang Rd, Cheticamp, NS.
Dining
For lunch, I stopped at the Dancing Goat Cafe & Bakery, another recommendation from a fellow traveler, and it did not disappoint. It’s a rustic little place with outdoor dining near a hilly meadow fill with flowers. The salad was crisp, and the sandwich was served with thick, artisan bread; plus, the bakery sold many scrumptious treats. Find it at 6289 Cabot Trail, Margaree Valley.
Whether you’re looking for outdoor adventure, historical sites, an epic road trip, or a relaxing beach vacation, you will find it in Cape Breton. Put it on your list right now.
Read more stories about Canada here.
