An hour outside Halifax, Peggy’s Cove is a small but historic fishing village made famous by many photographers for its picturesque turbulent Atlantic Ocean lighthouse scenes. It’s a popular tourist destination known for its rocky coastline, namesake lighthouse, working fishing boats, artists and craftspeople who sell their work in the village shops.
I stopped by while on a one-and-a-half-year solo road trip through America, Mexico and Canada. I was staying a few weeks in Nova Scotia, and several people told me it was not a site I should miss, and neither should you if you’re nearby.
This isn’t the kind of place where there’s a lot to do, but it’s the type where you’ll see something rare and that’s worth considering. The way to the cove will take you along rolling hills, past trees and through maritime port towns filled with only small businesses. These are modest places that have kept the traditions and norms of the past. You must drive long distances to find big box stores and city life while visiting neighbors might require transportation. The people are friendly but keep to themselves, and the sea is a way of life. None of this is truer than in Peggy’s Cove.
Peggy’s Cove History
Found on the eastern shore of St. Margaret’s Bay, Peggy’s Cove is a simple place home to a small population of about 100 people. In an ever faster, noisy and crowded world, that simplicity is part of the beauty of Nova Scotia.
European fishermen first settled in the village in the 1800s. Back then, it was known as Eastern Point Harbour, but it was renamed Peggy’s Cove after a young woman named Margaret, who was born in the village. Another story says it was named for the wife of a fisherman named Peggy and yet another says it was named for a woman shipwrecked off the shore. The truth is, it’s hard to be sure exactly sure how the cove got its name, but the mystery makes for a good story.
Here are 7 things you can do in Peggy’s Cove
1. Photograph the Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
The highlight of the cove is its namesake lighthouse. Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, built in 1915, is one of Canada’s most photographed landmarks and will quickly become one of your favorite travel pictures. As a frequent traveler, I often stop at lighthouses, but often being on rocky coastlines, they aren’t always easy to get close to like this one.
The lighthouse is still functional, 65 feet tall, and made of reinforced concrete with a red lantern room. The lighthouse is automated and is no longer staffed by a lighthouse keeper. The current lighthouse replaces an earlier wooden version from 1868.
2. Shop at the Peggy’s Cove Gift Shop
Adjacent to the lighthouse is a massive gift shop and big restaurant that accommodates the many tourists and provides a welcome break after the long drive to get there. The Peggy’s Cove Gift Shop is a great place to find souvenirs for your trip. They have various items, including t-shirts, hats, jewelry, and more. You can easily spend an hour browsing. The attached The Sou’Wester Restaurant is a great place to grab some classic Canadian food like:
- Lobsters: They Come in chowder, steamed, boiled, baked, or a lobster roll.
- Donairs: A Middle Eastern pita wraps popular in Nova Scotia and made with shaved beef, onions, tomatoes, and garlicky sauce.
- Hodge Podge: Stew made with vegetables, potatoes, and sometimes meat.
- Rappie Pie: A traditional Acadian dish with grated potatoes, pork fat, and meat or seafood.
- Dulse: Edible seaweed that is harvested in the Bay of Fundy. It has a salty, brine flavor that is perfect for adding to soups, salads, or even snacks.
Near the shop, you’ll see the Peggy’s Cove Fishermans Memorial. The monument, carved into the side of the rock, depicts 32 fishermen, their wives and children, St. Elmo with wings spread, and the legendary “Peggy.”
3 Eat at a Restaurant in Peggy’s Cove
A few casual restaurants in Peggy’s Cove serve fresh seafood and other local fare. This is a great place to refuel after a long day of exploring.
- Rhubarb Restaurant serves home-style cooking for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
- Tom’s Lobster Shack serves fresh seafood, including lobster rolls, fish and chips, and chowder.
- Shaw’s Landing serves seafood, including lobster rolls, fish and chips, and burgers.
- Harbour General Store and Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
4 Take a Boat Tour
A few companies offer boat tours of the surrounding area. This is a great way to see the coastline differently and learn more about the local history.
The Peggy’s Cove Boat Tour Company offers a variety of cruise and tour types for an hour or longer. You can get on the ocean and cruise past Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse and rocky islands. It’s common to see lobsters, crabs, and other sea creatures in their natural setting from the live underwater video camera. Guests also report seeing whales, seals, turtles and more.
5 Hike the Cove
There are several short trails in Peggy’s Cove to stretch your legs after the drive and enjoy the rustic charm of the landscape up close.
- The Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse Trail is an easy 0.2-mile loop trail that takes you to the lighthouse. It’s paved and wheelchair accessible.
- The Peggy’s Cove Northside Trail is a 0.7-mile loop trail that takes you along the rocky coastline of Peggy’s Cove with views of the ocean and the lighthouse.
- The Polly Cove Trail is a 1.5-mile out-and-back trail that takes you to Polly Cove, a small fishing village next to Peggy’s Cove along the coast.
- The Peggy’s Cove Viewpoint Trail is a 0.3-mile loop trail that takes you to an elevated viewpoint.
6 Visit Shops in Peggy’s Cove
There are several small businesses in the cove, each as unique as their names.
- Bubba Magoos is a candy store that sells a variety of sweets, including fudge, taffy, and chocolate.
- The Whale’s Back sells various souvenirs, jewelry, and home decor.
- Hags on the Hill sells various handmade items, including pottery, glassware, and jewelry.
- Harbour General Store sells groceries, a few souvenirs, and fishing supplies.
7 Visit the Swissair Flight 111 Memorial
In 1998 Swissair Flight 111 crashed into the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Nova Scotia. The memorial is a simple monument to commemorate the lives of 229 people who died in the crash. There is a granite wall on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean with the victims’ names engraved.
- The Swissair Memorial Trail is an 0.4-mile loop trail takes you from the cover to the Swissair Flight 111 Memorial with stunning views of the ocean and the coastline.
It’s easy to spend a few hours perusing the shops and coastline or just a few minutes to see the lighthouse. Either way, Peggy’s Cove is an authentic small fishing town you won’t find in many other places today and well worth visiting.
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